NURSERIES
| SUPPLIES | CLUBS
& SOCIETIES | GARDENS & ARBORETA
| PESTS
& DISEASES | EXPERTS
| TREES | ANGELA'S
PICKS |
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MAINTENANCE THIS MONTH- May |
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| Key words for May are... "plant",
"water", "mulch" and
"deadhead"! |
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LAWN
MAINTENANCE:
Aerate and overseed thin patches, if necessary. Adjust mower a little
higher to allow grass to grow a little higher. This will help your lawn
resist heat stress.
UC GUIDE TO HEALTHY LAWNS: Want
to know what type of lawn you have and how to maintain
it? Want to put in a new lawn or renovate
an old one? Need lawn pest info? The new UC
Guide to Healthy Lawns is an excellent resource. So is the
UC "Lawn
Watering Guide for California".
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SHADE
TREES:
Having any tree concerns? Call a certified
arborist for help.
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| MULCH:
Add
a thick layer of mulch to beds, but keep mulch a few inches away from main
trunks or stems. A layer at least 4 inches thick is required for good weed
suppression. |
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| PRUNE:
Prune
spring-blooming plants right after they finish blooming. |
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| FEED:
lawn,
roses and citrus if you didn't feed in April. Feed spring bloomers when
they finish blooming. Feed
blueberries with acid fertilizer. |
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BACKYARD
ORCHARD TREES, SHRUBS & VINES: Wrap
fruit tree trunks with sticky tape or Tanglefoot
to control ants.
The following links
to the University
of California Backyard Orchard care sheets will keep you
on track and on your way to a tasty harvest:
Citrus
are heavy nitrogen-feeders. An application of nitrogen in late
winter/early spring will provide adequate nutrients for flower
and fruit set.
RECOMMENDED FERTILIZER APPLICATION RATES:
NITROGEN (N): regular application
required
1 to 2 year old tree: 2 tablespoons nitrogen fertilizer 3 to
4 times per year or 1/10 lb. nitrogen fertilizer per year
3-year-old tree: 1/4 lb. nitrogen
applied to dripline
before watering
4+
year old tree:
1 lb. actual
nitrogen per tree per year. So, if your nitrogen fertilizer contains 33%
actual nitrogen (33-0-0), you will need to apply 3 lbs. Some references
recommend dividing applications into thirds, totaling 3 applications per
year (early spring, summer and fall). If you follow that recommendation,
make sure you avoid feeding oranges and grapefruit during summer
to avoid thick rinds, lower juice content and re-greening of
Valencia oranges.
PHOSPHORUS
(P): 1 lb. phosphate per tree every 3
to 4 years per mature tree
POTASSIUM (K): as needed
(deficiency: general leaf pattern begins as a yellowing
of the tips and margins, which then gets broader. Necrotic
areas and spotting can develop on the leaves) 2.5 to 5 lbs. potassium
per mature tree per year for 2 years if deficiency is noted.
MAGNESIUM (Mg): as needed
(deficiency noted by yellowing between veins of older
leaves followed by dropping.)
ZINC: as needed
(deficiency symptom is "mottle-leaf", exhibited by "small
terminal leaves with mottling between
large leaf veins". Apply late-winter or early spring foliar
spray (carefully follow label directions)
IRON: as needed
(deficiency symptom is yellowing between large
leaf veins... i.e. interveinal chlorosis)
foliar spray
(follow label directions)
MANGANESE (Mn):
as needed
(deficiency: young leaves turn light green between veins,
often more noticeable on tree's north side).
Combination "micronutrient sprays" are available
at your local nursery if you suspect multiple deficiencies.
A specialized
citrus fertilizer or "citrus food" likely contains
all necessary macro- and micro-nutrients.
References:
California
Master Gardener Handbook and the following books: |
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LanceWalheim.com...
This guy literally wrote the book on citrus! |
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IRRIGATION:
Adjust
your irrigation controller for warmer weather. We're getting into the
dry season, so chances are if it isn't a native plant, it will need supplemental
watering. The goal is to water as deeply and infrequently
as possible. Shallow, frequent watering (i.e. 10 min/day,
7 days/wk) is a no no because you'll end up with shallow root
systems that need frequent watering and conditions that encourage
disease.
Now is a good time to check your drip system for problems. If you're like
me, you've managed to chop many of those long tubes into penne pasta-sized
bits...
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ANNUALS:
Cool-season
annuals (pansies, primroses, etc.) are starting to fade from our warmer
temps. It's time to shift into "summer color" mode. Think impatiens,
petunias, zinnias and more.
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PERENNIALS:
Deadhead
blooming perennials regularly to stimulate continued blooming!
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ROSES:
Watch for aphids. Blast with water to control aphids. Deadhead regularly.
Pinch off tiny side buds on hybrid teas, leaving a single, central bud.
Prune non-repeat bloomers after blooms fade.
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WEEDS:
See
the UC
Weed Gallery for proper identification and the UC
IPM Pest Notes for how to manage them. |
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PESTS:
Slugs,
snails and aphids, oh my!.Visit
the fabulous UC
IPM website for control measures. Here are a few timely links
to pest pages:
Slugs & Snails: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
Aphids: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html
Mosquitoes:
Eliminate
bodies of stagnant water where possible and use mosquito
dunks where not. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7451.html
Ants: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7411.html
Earwigs: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74102.html
Want to see what the
GOOD
GUYS look like?
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| WE
ALL KNOW COMPOST HAPPENS... but is it happening in your yard?
Check out Project
Compost! |
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